![]() And then I used TB II on a project where TB III would have been stronger. I recently had someone give me crap for using TB III on a project when all I needed was Titebond Orginal. Check out the PSI strength ratings below. But in my opinion, not enough to justify paying the cost difference between the three varieties. Strength-wise, there are some differences as well. As an aside, you might also look at Titebond Extend if you need even more open time. So for those complex glue-ups, Titebond III would be a good choice. Titebond III offers twice the open time of Titebond II and Original. If you have a project that will be submerged for short periods or exposed to ambient moisture for extended periods, consider Titebond III. So if you have a project that will be exposed to light water (cutting boards, outdoor furniture, etc.), Titebond II will suffice. Titebond Original is for interior use only, Titebond II is water-resistant, and Titebond III is waterproof (well, technically its MORE water-resistant). The second difference is water resistance. Looking at Rockler’s current pricing on quarts, we have $8.59 for Titebond Original, $10.49 for Titebond II, and $13.99 for Titebond III. The first one you probably already noticed is the price. But in my opinion, there are only a few factors that really make a difference to the average woodworker. There are actually a number of differences between the three glue types if you dig into the details. Everyone has this question at one point or another. ![]() Is there any real significant difference between Titebond Original, II, and III wood glues? Is one really better than another? Thanks for your time. ![]() Hey Marc I have a really dumb question for you. Here’s a fundamental question from Jason. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |